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These look ok?

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:17 am
by Kyace
Hopefully got the major stuff made for next months (or in a couple weeks) event. Since I've never been to one before, I didn't know how these would compare so I figured I'd ask here.

Warning: largish images.

Sword
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee221/Kyace/100_2009.jpg

Sword, with breastplate, backplate and flower-pot helmet
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee221/Kyace/100_2010.jpg

The sword is 3/4" PVC core with two layers of 3/8" thick insulation on the blade (one fitted to 3/4" and one to 1") because none of the stores I checked has 5/8" thick.

Breastplate and backplate are plywood "core" with aluminum flash (normally for roofing) wrapped around the front.

Helmet is a children's bucket spray painted metallic.

Do the armor looks like it would count as plate? Does the sword look legal (its a two handed sword, 61" long with a 47 1/2" blade, tips are long enough but apparently I forgot to put a closed cell pommel on it as well)? Do all look well enough made to not look silly?

Thanks for any responses, looking forward to the event.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 2:45 pm
by CotoWindwalker
I'm no rules marshal and this in no way counts as an official responce. That being said I think your ahead of the curve as far as first events go. I was just running around with my wallet buying what could be had so I didn't spend the weekend in a t-shirt. Look forward to see you there assumeing we are talking about the same event.

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:09 pm
by Noah Absten
I usually do the weapons checks. Based on the materials used and the picture, your sword is probably not going to pass. I should have some extra materials at the event for weapon making, but please bring what you have and I can try to help you make a suitable weapon before the event starts.

I will try to write a detailed explanation later.

Noah

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:36 pm
by darwincoldstone
Armor looks great!

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:37 am
by Skjaldbakka
Don't take this too hard, as what you did is great for a new player, but here is my critique:

Based on the image, it looks like your pommel crush tip is too small. I couldn't see the thrust tip too well, but if the pommel tip is too small, odds are the thrust tip is too. You will probably find that duct tape on the grip is messy and uncomfortable, and may want to purchase some sports grip (such as are often used for tennis rackets -its what I have on my boffer sword).

Most first-time player's swords don't pass inspection, but the errors are normally easy to fix. There are a few tricks that aren't immediately obvious that you will be able to pick up on pretty quick. It is easier to show thatn to explain in written words, though.

The shield seems to have jagged edges. You need to pad those with foam. You can buy silvery duct tape at most home-depot type stores, which won't stick out too much. I use a polycarbonate base for my shield, which works really well. It is really light, and looks pretty good too (neither of which makes up for my lack of skill with sword/board).

I can't really see much of the armor, but if it works out I will want to compare notes with you (armor-making being something I am still working on). I imagine it will be heavy, and may have some issues with splinters. That is the reason I haven't experimented much with plywood base armor. I am interersted to see how it works out.

If you wind up short a longsword and shield due to not passing inspection, I will let you borrow mine. I have extras.

Just look for the MWE and the Sarr (my ride).

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 5:34 am
by Kyace
I figured I'd be amazingly lucky if I did pass my first inspection without help, but I'm trying to get my sword as legal as I can before the event so there will be less needing to be done there. Don't worry about me taking criticism too hard, I'm actually looking for them here.

The shield looking thing in the second picture is actually the backplate to the breastplate above it. The plywood is only 1/4" thick and the aluminum, despite being a pain to bend and attach, doesn't weigh much either. I don't have a scale accurate to that small of weight so I'll just say that they both together weigh less than a hardcover Harry Potter book while providing nearly as much protection. Overall, the armor looks metal and it feels solid to me, but ended up being more work than they should have been.

I don't know much about fighting styles but figured it would be better to increase my reach with a longer sword than rely on a 13" radius shield, mostly due to my lankiness. Making bigger tip is a fairly minor thing, I'm actually more worried about what Noah meant about the "materials used".

Thanks Darwin for the compliment and thanks all for reading and criticism.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:05 am
by Skjaldbakka
Just noticed that that is supposed to be a greatsword, not a longsword. It looked a little big for a longsword. You are in luck, as my traveling NERO character (the one I use for not-NEROkentucky), uses a greatsword, so I can bring them for you to borrow. I can also give you some tips on the effective ways to fight boffer-style with a greatsword. It is not particulary intuitive.

You can imagine that the RW strengths of the greatsword wouldn't play out well in a system where it doesn't matter how hard you can hit. Greatsword actually works out to be a very linear, defensive style, when done right. I'll show you at the event (OOC, as my nerokentucky character isn't proficient with greatswords).

I look forward to meeting you at the event.

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:08 am
by Kyace
Thanks; I look being there and meeting you (and you all).

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:46 pm
by Noah Absten
I'm sorry my response yesterday was short, I was about to leave when I saw your post.

The reason I said something about the materials is because I am not sure about the foam you used. While two layers of 3/8 foam is more overall, there are a lot of potential problems with that. The other thing I noticed was that there were no thrusting tips (the open cell foam on the ends). You need 3" of thrusting tip on each end of a 2 handed sword, which if you add on, is likely going to increase the length of the weapon too much.

I don't think I have any 5/8 foam for a 3/4 inch pipe. It is a pain to find. I special order mine and have it delivered to a local hardware store. Actually, they may ship to a store in your area.

If you follow this link it will take you to the correct foam. You can purchase it online and have it delivered to a local hardware store free. Or you can call the store and have them order it for you. Be sure to give them the SKU number so you are sure to get the right thing.

http://doitbest.com/Pipe+insulation-ITP ... 436200.dib

I hope this helps.

Noah

PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:21 pm
by Kyace
The pictures didn't show it well, but there are 2 1/2" tips on both ends, which I included in the measurements before starting. Do the rules for 2 handed swords require 3" tips now?

Jackson Oh and Olive Hill and Louisa KY, the three closest DoItBests, are all about an hour away. As it's unlikely that I'll be able to visit any of the three before then, my best bet would be to phone in the order to the Olive Hill DoItBest and pick it up on my way to the event. I'll also bring a precut pipe, duct tape and open cell foam and should be able to put it together there.

I'll also bring my first sword so you can officially check it out or deny it.

Thanks for better explaining what you mean to me.

PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 3:04 pm
by Noah Absten
I'm sorry. Yes for a 2 hand sword it is 2 1/2. It is 3 for polearms. You would still need a waylay tip on the bottom of the sword, but we should be able to add that and still keep it within the length requirements. I will be bringing all my weapon building materials, so if yours doesn't pass, we should be able to build you one.

Noah